Treasure in the forest

 

An old Shiva temple located deep in the forest in a wildlife sanctuary, lush green surroundings, a waterfall nearby and the chirping of birds and suggestions of wildlife around. Doesn’t it sound like a perfect setting for an adventure or mystery movie? This place is real and so is the temple. Nestled deep within the forest and surrounded by nature’s treasures, this temple stands a witness to the Kadamba rule in Goa. Situated in the deep forest clearing at the foothills of scenic Western Ghats, it may have escaped foreign invasions due to its isolated location.

I am talking about the Mahadev Temple located in Tambdi Surla. The only existing example of a basalt stone Kadamba temple in Goa, this nirandhara temple has stood tall since the 12th century against a scenic background. It is located at the foothills of Anmod Ghat. The temple gets its name from the area it’s located in, Tambdi meaning the red colour of the soil present and Surla after the Surla River that flows nearby.

The temple is small in size. Though it’s not lavish in a traditional sense, its significance lies in its simplicity. The ground plan consists of a Mukhamnadapa (pillared hall) and a Garbhagriha (sanctum). The Garbhagriha is dark and the only source of light is the lamps placed here. A Shiv linga is right at the centre. Every day locals offer worship in the temple. There’s an idol of Nandi in the Mukhamandapa but its head is missing. There are four niches on the rear wall of Mukhamandapa, facing the east, south and north. The idols of Vishnu and Ganesha are faintly recognizable. Certain elements here remind us of Chalukyan-style architecture.

The surroundings are peaceful. Occasionally one can hear the chirping of birds and the water that flows nearby. As I was fortunate to visit this place in the rainy season, the enticing surroundings were a treat for the eyes. It drizzled when I was in the temple. The early morning dew was settling down on the leaves and the place smelt of rain, mud, incense sticks, serenity and faith. The already present lush greenery of the forest was more enhanced due to the rains. I couldn’t stop marveling at the site selection by the rulers to build this interesting piece of architecture. There could not have been a more perfect setting for a Goan temple. Forest, water and tranquility form the heart of Goa and each element is present here in abundance.

Legend says that a black cobra guards the temple. It lives inside the Garbhagriha and protects the temple. I wasn’t fortunate enough to witness this unusual guardian of the temple and the thought that there may be one present around wasn’t ominous.


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